From the diary of a hairstylist: by Crystal Casey

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Currently showing posts tagged blondehair

  • The price we pay.

    What you are about to read touches a very sensitive subject, a subject that 80% of couples fight ( & ultimately get divorced) over, a subject that people avoid & most times are in denial about. 

    Money.

    As a hairdresser one of the first questions I get asked is "How much will this cost?" if they don't ask it, then I do. The reason I ask "Whats your budget for this?" is not so I can take all that they have, its so I can work within the budget I am given. If my guest is showing me pictures of $250 hair & their budget is $175 then its my job to say "I'm sorry but for your budget, Im afraid thats not possible, instead we can do this or this." In some cases my guest will allow themselves a larger budget & sometimes we reach a compromise. 

    I know I am not a cheap stylist. I have done my research, I know what surrounding salons charge for similar services. When I first opened my salon I put myself at the lower end of the scale, but didn't cut myself short. As I furthered my education, grew my salon & became more "in demand" my prices went up. 

    But, what I really want to touch on today is for clients. 

    Let's start with price quotes. I really struggled with this when I first opened but, I have it down to fine science now. Pricing depends on many things, those things are:

    1. Length of hair & thickness.
    2. Previous services & your goal color.
    3. Treatments ( no GOOD stylist is going to let you leave with brittle hair).
    4. Amount of product used. 
    5. How long your appointment is going to take, time is money. 
    6. Technique used to achieve goal results.
    7. Is this considered a color correction?

    Giving price quotes via message or email is not my favorite thing to do. However, I will do it. I just make sure the quote covers lowest to highest & everything in between. 

    Next up, Color Corrections. Color corrections for me have a base price of $200 & go up from there. Usually its $100 an hour after the first hour, however...every circumstance is different. Hair is completely unpredictable things can go amazing & your black box hair color can lift to level 9 yellow no problem or I can color remove you twice & your hair reverts back to black....(that has happened to me it turned into a 12 hour correction)

    Specialty Colors: Ombre, Balayage, color melts, fashion color....pretty much everything that anyone ask for anymore is a specialty color. These are colors & techniques that need tremendous extended education. 

    Education is not cheap. My first year in business I took lots of independent classes & attended some hair shows where I was almost on education overload. I spent $5,000 in 8 months doing all of this. In the end it was totally worth it. I invested in myself & my profession & my clients could see the difference. I spent countless hours on periscope watching other stylist, learning from them, absorbing all the free education that was at my fingertips. 

    There will always be those people who respond with, "Wow, you're too expensive!"  Or "That's way too much, I can get a cut & color on my long, thick hair for $75!" (of course in a case like this I want to ask why they are looking for a different hairdresser then... haha) but, my response is usually "Good hair isn't cheap & cheap hair isn't good." 

    I don't really feel like I should ever have to explain WHY my prices are what they are but, I do hope this small break down will help some of your understand. 

    My salon expenses are about $2,231 a month. This includes my rent, my product, my phone, advertising cost (website, Facebook etc) this doesn't even begin to touch on the countless free photoshoots or color models I do to have material to advertise with or to get my name out there. 

    My personal expenses are about $2,863 a month, this includes my car, insurance, groceries, gym, cable, electric, rent, student loans etc. 

    Neither one of these totals reflects health inspections, license renewals, what I pay in taxes, new tools & equipment or holidays. 

    They also do not reflect the travel I do to educate, or the travel I do to go to hair shows/classes to learn.  new trends. These are bare minimum totals. 

    So my bare minimum monthly totals are around $5,094 give or take the time of year or any travel. 

    My tools range from $80- $1,500.

    Products, I spend about $350-$400 a month.

    When I expanded my salon it cost about $4,500

    Owning a business or even renting a booth is not cheap.Those stylist who are commission employees, they more than likely have money deducted for product & they do have to buy their own tools. 

    Please remember this the next time you want to tell me or another stylist that we are "too expensive" we have bills to pay just like you. This is our job, our career....this isn't a hobby & we aren't playing dress up just because we like pretty colors. Being a hairdresser is incredibly complex, its chemistry, its electricity, its geometry, its public speaking & its art. 

    Ps- for those of you worried about my spelling & grammar...I'm not. If you could read & understand this post, I did my job :)

  • Silver Fox....based on a true story.

    Silver Fox....based on a true story.

    Let's talk about the silver hair trend.....

    While silver/grey hair is beautiful (when done well) its damn near impossible to get unless, your hair is already platinum blonde. (this means WHITE! Like Kalessi white, SNOW WHITE, wedding gown WHITE) 

    On that note: To get white, its going to take many, MANY processes & lots of cash money unless, you're a natural blonde.

    Its on too rare of an occasion that I get emails saying 

    "how much would it cost to do this to my hair?"

    color by @bescene 

    Well first of all, what does your hair look like now? How many layers of salon or box color are on it? Just asking someone for a price and forcing a picture on them is kind of presumptuous not to mention rude. But thats a whole different blog post. 

    If your hair is ANY KIND of dark brown to black, all natural or not. (its usually not) 

    The awnser is NO

    NO you can not have that in one sitting

    NO you probably wont have that in the next year.

    NO I'm not going to fry your hair. 

    WHY?

    Well, I'm not Harry Potter & my color brush isn't a magic wand, thats why. 

    WHAT CAN YOU HAVE?

    Red or Orange. You choose. 

    So you're unhappy with my response? You decide to stylist hop? You decide to go to Sally's & try that really cool toner you saw in that YouTube video that uses DOUBLE 20 VOLUME?

     Let me show you what happens when you do that & DON'T do your research. 

    YES that is a bowl full of hair. NO it was not cut off, shaved off or by any other means purposely taken off.  It BROKE off. 

    All of the Olaplex in the world isn't going to save your hair when you have been to 3 different stylist before me & have no clue of your hair history, or leave out the parts where you used that Sally's toner.

    The hair in this bowl belongs to a client of mine, lets call her "Mrs.T" & before you get all bent out of shape she gave me discretion to write this blog & tell her story. 

    Mrs.T is Cuban. I know you might be thinking, what does that have to do with it? Well it has everything to do with it. She went to 3 different stylist asking for white/silver hair. Each stylist just did a full hilight. Now Mrs.T has literally 5 heads of the thickest hair you've ever seen, except just on her head. 

    So you can imagine how just a full hilight may have left her feeling....mmm....unfulfilled. So on to the next stylist she went....

    Again, another head of hilights, she's a bit lighter at this point....but it's still not enough so she headed to her 3rd stylist where she again received a full head of hilights. All the while using Wella's T-18 toner in between, which uses DOUBLE 20 VOLUME developer. Clients or future clients who are reading this, i STRONGLY advise NOT trying that at home. 

    Finally Mrs.T found me, when she got to me her hair was strong enough to handle one all over lightening session (with 3 different formulas of lightener) & a good ashy toner that came in the form of Redken Shades EQ, to get her as close to her goal as possible. All of her formulas included Olaplex & we did a stand alone treatment on her as well. 

    She loves it! "This is the closest to my goal I have gotten!" she exclaims.

    She leaves happy, Olaplex #3 in hand. 

    About 4 weeks go by & I get a message from Mrs.T. She still loves her hair, but she is seeing some warmth & was wondering if we could just hilight those out. 

    My first concern is for the integrity of her hair, we set an appointment & she comes in, her hair is actually in great shape! I go through & meticulously foil out any warm pieces I see being very careful not to touch ANY WHITE. I used 5 volume developer with my lightener & olaplex. 

    She lifts well, hair is still strong, I mix up her toner (add the Olaplex) & get to rinsing. I'm noticing a lot of hair in the sink, but think nothing of it because she has A LOT of hair which means, more than average hair loss. 

    Toned her with Schwarzcopf, absolute whites in Grey Lilac & Slate Grey with 10 volume & Olaplex. Max of 7 minutes this toner sits on her hair. 

    As I'm rinsing more & more hair is coming out. I won't lie this is where I started sweating a little bit. 

    I put Aquage equalizing detangler in her & GENTEELLY brush her hair out at the bowl with a wet brush. 

    Well, the hair keeps coming, so much so that it fills the bowl you see above. 

    I let Mrs.T know the WHOLE TIME what is happening, she's nervous.....I'm nervous. I smother her hair in a masque & send her on her way, no heat for that hair today. I advise her of the same and tell her Olaplex is going to be her best friend. 

    She sends me a text 2 days later. "Well, the verdict is in, do you want to see?"

    I literally cringe at what I'm about to see.

    HOOOOOOWWWWW??????

    She loves it!!! She said its definitely lighter (weigh wise) than it was before, but its just like it thinned it out a bit. 

    If ANY white girl had this happen to them, they would be rocking a pixie or may even be bald. 

    6 months goes by & she makes an appointment to come back in. All the white still referring people to me left & right. 

    This is what her hair looked like when she came back 6 months later....

    And this is what kind of breakage she had......

    Not just in that one spot, but in multiple places. 

    She had been taking great care of it, using Olaplex, good shampoo & conditioner & NO HEAT. 

    We were Finally able to get her what she wanted. A grey to silver melt. 

    I used Schwarzcopf absolute whites in Slate Grey & Grey Lilac with 10 volume developer melted into Kenra Charcoal on some strands & Paul Mitchell Pop XG Steel & Joico Titanium on other strands. All formulas included Olaplex. 

    The outcome was stunning. 

    Moral of the story?? 

    RESEARCH any and all hairdressers in your area when asking for a specialty color.

    LISTEN to what they are telling you, often times these kinds of colors are a process.

    DON'T throw a fit when you can't have what you want....thats bad form. We are the licensed professionals & I promise we know what we are doing. 

    DON'T believe everything you see on YouTube. 

    Don't forget to follow me on Instagram @CryistalChaos to see all kinds of fun hair art.